Pindhari Glacier (1953) Last Updated: April 9, 2022

Filled with joy and excitement to see Pindari Glacier, we left Mumbai for Kathgodam in Uttar pradesh, now in Uttarakhand. We went to the tourist office and saw map showing route to the famous glacier. Our group consisted of my elderly parents, and me and my sister.

In the evening we reached Kausani. As we had been there before we moved around with familiarity. In front of us was the western Himalayan range. We tried to identify different peaks. We were especially looking for Nandakot, at the base of which the glacier is located.

Next morning we left Kausani for Kapkote in the car. Here we met our porters about 7 – 8 of them.  We selected all that we will need on the way, which included vegetables like potato and onions, a tin of Kerosene and stove and even a portable toilet. For the cold weather we were sparingly prepared, so in Kausani we bought some locally woven woolen caps and blankets. My sister and me had bought what in those days was called tennis shoes at Bata shop and some socks. I would say by today’s standard for hiking we were totally unprepared. My father had been to foreign countries, so he had woolen pant, cap, muffler etc. But my mom wore her khadi saris and a jacket. No shoes for her.

Now starts our trekking. In the afternoon we left Kapkot to reach Loharkhet, a distance of seven miles. Being fresh we crossed the first five miles at a stretch. The road passes along the bank of the Sarju river for some distance. The last two miles we climbed steep slope of about 1500 ft., to reach Loharkhet. We were too tired and weary. Fresh air invigorated us and we drank some coffee and then prepared dinner. That night we could not get sound sleep due to fatigue and soring legs.

Next morning, to reach our next stop we had to cross Dhakuri a 9500ft. high steep pass. Because of the climb we would get so tired that could not move even a step further. So my sister and me sat on our pony alternately. I wonder how my aged parents managed to climb.

The road was beautiful, passing through a forest. We crossed a number of streams and the water was so sweet and cool that we could not resist drinking it. Thus we reached Dhakuri pass, a narrow saddle, atop the hill. After steep descent of 500 feet we reached our bungalow and stretched ourselves in the cool, green grass. The chowkidar pointed out a snow range called Sunder Dhunga and other taller mountains behind. We wanted to stay here but we could not as we had not made booking. Really Dhakuri is such a lovely place that one must spend at least one night here. A beautiful panoramic view of the whole range can only been see in early morning hours so one night stay is necessary.

In the afternoon weather suddenly changed, it became cloudy and stormy. So unwillingly and hurriedly we left Dhakuri for Khati. To reach Khati one has to go along a circulous descent all the way, a distance of 4 miles in two hours, through thick forest of tall trees, some of them a hundred year old.

Beyond Dhakuri pass, one feels a different world – a world of nature, a world of serene silence – dominated by gigantic Himalayas. Loharkhet was the last village having a post office. At Dhakuri there is only much needed rest house, while people live in the deep valley below .

Khati, however is a hamlet with a school, but no post office. School children with long knotted hair greeted us with smiling faces. Here we had a sumptuous dinner, sound and comfortable sleep. From Khati we went to Dwali – covering a distance of six miles. Through out the way river Pindar flows with a roaring noise. A number of rivulets by the roadside made the journey all the more pleasant. Dwali bungalow is situated in very nice surrounding. At the back of the bungalow is located Kafini glacier. But few tourists venture to go there, we were told that the valley is well known for its flowers. The climate wad so cold, that even at noon we felt the necessity to cover with blankets.

After lunch we started for Phurkia. Due to the high altitude river had frozen upwards at a number of places and so, we too had opportunity of walking in snow. The very sight of the snow made us cheerful. We dug out the snow and relished it in spite of my father’s refusal. We also made a snowman from the slabs of snow. The porters told us that rivulets get frozen during the night and again melt in the morning and start flowing downwards.

The natural scenery throughout the way is so enchanting that one forgets four miles of walking. From a distance we saw Phurkia bungalow amidst the slope of the high mountains, a vestige of man’s creation amidst nature.

In front of the bungalow on the other side of the river stands majestic Nandakot. The sight of the Nandakot is so magnificent that it always remains in front of our eyes.

Phurkia is situated at the height 11,000 ft., the climate was cold and chilly. We had to use woolen caps. Due to cold we could not eat anything except some coffee.

Generally it is advisable to start early in the morning to see the Glacier. Next day at about 5.30 am we started to see the route of the glacier in shivering cold. We saw a heap of snow about 50 ft. away from the bungalow. We sisters along with our father tried to trudge upon it but gave up as we were not accustomed to it, nor prepared for it. We had gone there in the early part of the season. We regretted that being unequipped, no proper shoes we had to give up.

I cannot finish my story without mentioning about the help of our porters along the way. They were well organized and one or two of them would collect some leafy eatable vegetable for their evening meal. Depending on the facility available they cooked their food and most of the time slept outdoors. Some of them were curious and would talk with us.

When we reached our destination “Garud” my parents organized a feast for them. We hired a local cook and served them Sweet shira, Rice and Dal.

Parting was difficult. But we had to return to Mumbai.

This is the toughest journey I have undertaken in my life.